Fish are also very adaptable creatures. It is what allows them to live and thrive in captivity when many other marine animals are unable to make the change. The fish will adapt to the environment around them and learn to live in the conditions of their tank. It is important that these conditions remain as constant as possible. As in nature a tip in the balance of the elements in an aquarium can bring with it devastating consequences. It is important that changes in the aquarium environment be few and far between.

This is generally a very simple matter until the time comes for the water in the tank to be changed. In nature the water in the ocean is constantly cycling; therefore, the water never has the opportunity to become stale and overloaded with elements that will have a negative impact on the well being of your aquatic friends. Since this is not the case in an aquarium even with an excellent artificial filtering system and organic filtering methods combined it will still be necessary on occasion to manually clean the tank.

The water with which you replace the dirty water in the aquarium should be as close as possible to the water that was originally filling the tank. What this means is that if you opted to buy a pre-made saltwater mix when you started your tank you should continue to use that same pre-made saltwater mix. If you made your own saltwater you should use the same type of sea salt in the same proportions that you used in the beginning. If you opted to transplant ocean water or purchased filtered ocean water you are going to want to use that same type of water when you make the change.

Water in aquariums should be changed every couple of months, more if you happen to notice that wastes are beginning to build up. This will be evident by the hazy look the previously clear water will take on and the obvious accumulation of waste at the bottom of the tank. Be sure when you change the water you also clean the components of the tank and the inside of the glass itself. Putting clean water into an empty tank is along the same lines as putting clean clothes on a dirty body-there is little point.

By keeping your tank clean and the conditions as constant as possible you are giving your fish the best possible chance to thrive in their artificial environment, guaranteeing that you will be able to enjoy their beauty for a very long time.

Filter cleaning is extremely important. Filters collect waste excreted by the fish and left in the tank in the form of excessive fool. The filters will eventually fill with debris and be unable to do their job unless they are cleaned. In addition to eliminating waste, filter sometimes act as an aeration device cycling oxygen through the tank. If the filters are clogged, circulation slows. This limits the amount of oxygen in the tank. If left untreated, this could be deadly for your fish. Change the filter on the aquarium every two to three weeks depending on need. You will know when it needs to be cleaned because the water will become cloudy or smelly. Some filters need to be replaced, while other simply need to be cleaned with water.

The proper way to change water in a tank is to do it gradually. First unplug any lights and equipment before cleaning the aquarium. Change approximately one third of the water in the aquarium every one to two weeks. Water from the tap should be treated accordingly before adding to the tank and adjusted within two degrees of the aquarium. Again, check with your local retailer when purchasing fish. Some treatments allow the tap water to be ready in as little as an hour, while others need to sit overnight before being added to the tank.

Clean the sides of the tank with a scrubber to remove any built up algae. Be careful not to disturb or scare the fish. Move rocks and decorations to loosen any debris. Try to collect this debris when removing the water, either with a bucket or a vacuum type of siphon. Prune any dead leaves from aquatic plants. Clean the outside of the tank with a squeegee and clean tap water. Clean the cover and lid. Lastly, plug the aquarium back in, and enjoy the freshly cleaned tank.

When starting any new aquarium, you should get everything in place before buying the fish. If you are going to put gravel on the bottom, you may want to put only a thin layer. This will make it easier to keep clean, as Goldfish tend to be messy. Make sure that you rinse the gravel thoroughly before placing it in the bottom of the tank. If you have some decorations, you should add them now. Make sure that you rinse them well before putting them into the tank. Also be sure that the goldfish have plenty of room to swim, as they as active fish. Give them a place or two to hide, and that should do nicely.

Now that you have everything in place, you can add in the water. You will need to use a dechlorinator, as the chlorine in tap water is poisonous to fish. Once the fish tank is filled up, you can turn on the filter. Change it as often as recommended to keep your fish healthy. Goldfish live at room temperature, so you will not need a heater. They are quite comfortable in temperatures from 68 to 80 degrees. However, they should not be exposed to rapid temperature changes. You might want to let the filter run in the new goldfish tank for a day or so to filter out any chemicals or dyes that might have been left on the gravel and decorations that you just added. Waiting to buy new fish can be one of the hardest things about fish keeping!

You need to add fish gradually. Fish excrete ammonia. If you add too many fish at once to a new fish tank, the water will not be seasoned enough to dissipate it. As the water in your Goldfish tank ages, it builds up beneficial bacteria that turn harmful chemicals excreted by the fish into harmless ones. However, this will take some time. Start out with only one fish. The nitrogen cycle will not begin until you add the fish, so running an empty tank for several days will not help. Since your fish tank is brand new, you might want to consider making partial water changes of about 25 per cent of the total water volume every few days for the first week or so.

You can find Goldfish food at almost any pet shop. Make sure to purchase some when you buy your first fish. Feed only a small amount. Especially at first. Any uneaten food will sink to the bottom and rot. Keep this to a minimum. Watch your fish the first few times that you feed them. Feed only as much as they will eat in two to three minutes twice a day, or as recommended on the Goldfish food label. Be especially careful not to overfeed when the Goldfish tank is new. This will cause excess build up of toxic chemicals and can kill your fish quickly.

As the water in your fish tank cycles through the nitrogen cycle, you may notice that is becomes very cloudy. This is a normal process and should clear up in a few days. Do not add any new fish until the water is crystal clear again. Clear water will signify that the nitrogen cycle is working and that the toxic chemicals are being converted to good ones. Remember that Goldfish will grow large and they need a big space. Don’t overcrowd the tank if you want to keep healthy fish. If you follow this little guideline, you will be sure to have a healthy goldfish aquarium.

Before resorting to plastic green pieces stuck into the gravel, consider using live plants. Aquatic plants are functional in many ways. Most importantly, the live plants will add oxygen to the water and will help to maintain the water chemistry. They also serve as a place where beneficial bacteria can colonize. This bacteria is essential to have and helps in breaking down waste products in the tank. Overall, the use of live plants aids keeping your aquarium clean and healthy while adding a perfect visual effect.

Once the decision to use live plants is made, you must familiarize yourself with how to grow and care for these plants. The key to growing healthy live plants is the balance between lighting and nutrients within the tank. It is best to use more lighting than what is included with standard hoods. The one bulb that comes with a hood is not enough to promote healthy plant growth. When adding extra lighting, be sure to compensate that with a nutrient supplement to stimulate plant growth and at the same time reduce the chance of algae build up. Algae eating fish will make a great addition. They will keep algae levels low and will not damage the live plants.

The decision to use live plants should be a primary one and steps need to be taken to prepare the tank for later use. It is suggested to add all your plants in the beginning and let them become established. By doing this, you will eliminate the chances algae utilizing the nutrients added and the extra lighting. Quick growing plants are recommended as well as some floating plants. Certain types of fish, such as a catfish, like to seek cover from direct light. The floating plants will provide this escape for the fish and will add a pleasing effect to the design and decoration of the aquarium.

Once your plants are established and growing well, add the fish of your choice and enjoy a beautiful tank. While keeping live plants in the tank, it is important to care for them as you would any other plant. Always remove decaying leaves as they tend to drain the nutrients out of the healthy parts of the plant. Dying roots will rot beneath the gravel. Be sure to remove any part of the plant that is dying or appears diseased. Many plants that are seeded into the gravel will reproduce. The new plant growth can be removed and planted in another part of the aquarium. If you are using a live plant that is primarily a stem plant, try to remove the lower leaves. These low leaves tend to not get the amount of light needed to remain healthy.

The use of live plants will definitely help in creating a masterpiece aquarium that is pleasing to the eye and is a happy and healthy environment for your fish. Always remember to clean your aquarium on a regular basis and inspect plants weekly for decay. Scheduled maintenance is the key to keeping a beautiful and healthy aquarium.

Isolation tank-Many serious aquarium owners like to use an isolation tank. When they bring new fish home they place them in a separate tank rather than introducing them directly into their main tank. This gives them the opportunity to watch the fish for a week or two to ensure that they do not have any diseases or infections that may infect their main tank. This is a particularly good idea if you have a lot of expensive or rare fish.

Quarantine or Hospital Tank-These are a great idea if you have the room and the extra equipment. They do not have to be large or elaborate, in fact a bare minimum of decorations in the tank is preferable. This will help to reduce the amount of cleaning and bacteria in the tank. It does need to be properly cycled before putting any fish in it. There is no point in putting a sick fish into an uncycled tank and exposing it to toxic levels of ammonia or nitrites.

Set up- The hospital tank only needs to be large enough to keep one or two of the largest fish in your main tank. If you do not want to have it running all the time consider keeping a small sponge filter in your main tank. This can be quickly moved to the hospital tank when it is needed. This will ensure that the filter has a good build up of healthy bacteria growth before going into the isolation tank. If the disease you are trying to cure is contagious do not bother moving the filter to the hospital tank because you will only be spreading the disease. Treat the entire main tank.

A hospital tank is only needed if the condition that your fish has is not contagious. In many cases of fish disease you are going to need to treat the entire population of the tank. Even if other fish are not showing signs of the disease they may be infected. If the disease is caused by poor water quality or an imbalance you may want to remove the sick fish and medicate it, while you balance or correct any problems in the main tank.

Fish medication can be expensive. Treating just one fish in a small tank is far less expensive than trying to medicate an entire aquarium. If the disease itself is not contagious and was caused by fish aggression or injury there is no need to treat the entire main tank.

There are many tropical fish medicines on the market, which are highly effective. But, in order for any medication to be effective you have to be able to properly diagnose the fish. You not only have to recognise the disease but ascertain whether or not the disease is contagious or is an isolated incident. You should also know if the disease is a result of some other primary factor which should also be corrected.

List of common diseases and problems:

Red Pest
Mouth Fungus
Dropsy
Tail and Fin Rot
Scale Protrusion
Velvet
Ich
Flukes
Fungus
Injuries
Costia
Eye Pop

There are four main variety’s of algae; green algae, brown algae, red-brush algae, and blue green algae.

Green algae is the variety of algae that most people are familiar with. Green algae thrives in any aquarium that receives an abundance of light. The two most commonly seen green algaes in aquariums are hair algae and hard “green dot algae”. Hair algae are long wispy strands of algae that are easily cleaned from the tank. The green-dot algae appears as green dots of algae on the side of the aquarium, it is very difficult and time consuming to remove green dot algae.

It is common for brown algae to appear when a tank that has just been started. It typically puts in an appearance within the first two weeks. Its appearance in established tanks means that the aquarium owner needs to test the nitrate and phosphate levels of this tank. Brown algae is unusual because it thrives in aquariums that do not receive a great deal of light. When brown algae appears in the tank the aquarium owner needs to clean the entire tank and increase the lighting. It is not unusual for brown algae to disappear when the tank conditions stabilize.

Red-brush algae is a variety of algae that loves aquariums that have a high PH. It is incredibly difficult to manually remove red-brush algae from aquariums.

Blue-green algae is deceptive because it’s not an algae at all. It is really a cynobacteria. When it appears in the aquarium it looks like a slime that is taking over the tank. Blue-green algae can be fatal to aquarium plants and can jeopardize the health of the fish.

There are many ways you can discourage the growth of algae in your saltwater tanks.

One of the simplest ways to limit the amount of algae in your saltwater tank is to reduce your lighting. Leaving your aquarium lights on for less then nine hours a day will limit the amount of time algae has to photosynthesis. Use the lowest wattage possible.

Use distilled water whenever you clean your saltwater aquarium or change the water. Changing your water every two to three weeks will limit the amount of time algae can grow in your tank. When you change the water make sure you vacuum your rocks. Also keep the use of additives to a minimum. Change your prefilter pad weekly.

Stock your tank with algae eating fish. In saltwater tanks this will be; hard star fish, Yellow Tang fish, Blennies, Turbo snails, Angel fish, and small Hermit Crabs.

Purchase the largest, strongest algae glass cleaning magnet you can find and then use it. If you use the magnet each and every time you clean the water your tank the glass on your tank should stay algae free. Be sure to clean the magnet after each use. For particularly stubborn algae spots, you will have to use a razor blade. Don’t forget to clean the overflow pipes.

When should I clean my tank? You should clean your tank once every two months unless you can really tell it needs cleaned before then. Why should I clean my tank once every two months? Because your tank will start building up algae on the inside and your gravel will retain waste that could make your fish ill in the future.
The following steps are easy and quick and will provide your fish with a clean and happy aquarium.

Step 1 (prepare for cleaning)
You have to prepare for the steps to follow before removing your fish from your freshwater aquarium. There are some supplies you will need to clean the tank, so it’s best to have them handy before starting. You will need some kind of container that your fish can be placed in until it’s time for them to be put back in the tank. It doesn’t have to be a large container, but make sure your fish do have enough room to swim freely. This container is dependant on how many fish are living in the tank. You will also need a fish net, a towel or paper towels to wipe up any spills that may occur, a water pitcher or a bucket for refilling the tank, food drainer, a clean sponge, and a clean rag. After you have these things gathered, you’re now ready to begin cleaning your freshwater aquarium.

Step 2 (Removing your fish)
This may be the most important step in the cleaning process. It is time to remove the fish from the tank. The first thing to do is make sure that the container in which the fish are being placed has water that is about the same temperature at the tank, other wise your fish will go into shock. When the container of water is ready, use the net to catch each fish one-by-one and place them in the container. Once all the fish are collected, be sure to place the container in a safe place where it will not be spilled. It is common for fish to become stressed when they are moved, so the water temperature and reducing as much unneeded activity is very important.

Step 3 (Removing the fish tanks old water)
When all the fish are out of the tank, it is time to start emptying the water from the aquarium. Using the pitcher or small bucket, begin to remove the water. The water from the tank may be disposed in a sink or toilet. This can be a messy task, so be sure to clean up all spills to prevent any possible accidents. It is not necessary to remove all the water from the tank. Most freshwater aquarium owners remove approximately 3/4 of the water. The remaining original water will help acclimate the new water you will add later.
Step 3 (Removing and cleaning your tanks gravel)
Most of the waste that gathers in a tank settles into the gravel at the bottom. It is very important to clean the gravel when you clean your tank. At this time you will remove the gravel. You can use the fish net, a small scoop or even a dustpan to do this. Place the gravel in a container. Once you have removed all the gravel, transfer it into a strainer of some sort and run it under hot water. Be sure to mix it up while you are rinsing so that all the sediment and waste is removed. Once the gravel has been cleaned, place it aside. You will not be putting it back in the tank at this time.

Step 4 (Cleaning the tank)
Now it’s time to clean the inside of the tank. This can be a tedious chore if there is a lot of build-up on the glass. Some freshwater aquariums have algae growth on the glass. The warmer the water is inside and the more the aquarium is exposed to natural sunlight, the more algae growth you will have. This can be cleaned off by using a scratch pad. Try to use the least abrasive pad you can to avoid scratching the class. Cleaning with hot water will aid in the removal of algae. Make sure to never use any type of cleaner or detergent when cleaning the tank. This will be fatal to the fish. After removing the algae, finish by wiping down the rest of the tank with a towel or soft rag. You may have to repeat this a few times. Try to rinse the rag or towel frequently to remove all the waste. If you have decorative pieces in the tank, be sure to wash them as well using hot water. After completing these steps, your tank should be clean of waste and build-ups.

Step 5 (Putting it all back together)
Now it’s time to replace everything. Start by replacing the gravel into the tank, followed by refilling the water. Take notice of the temperature once again. Try to add water that is of the same temperature as the original water in the tank. Add your finishing touches with decorative pieces, then carefully move the fish back in. It may take a little while for the fish to adjust to the new water, but after having followed all these steps, you can be sure that your tank is clean and healthy.

You won’t have to completely clean your tank for another 2 months. Always remember to change the filters if they are dirty. As an added tip, if you remove 20% of the water every month and replace it with clean water, this will cut down on the complete cleaning of the tank in the future. To maintain a healthy tank, it is important to clean it properly and keep up with the aquarium care. By doing this, you will ensure a long life for your fish and an enjoyable experience for observers.

When selecting decorations for your home aquarium you will be given an option of decorating with either plastic accoutrements or bringing nature into your home by installing live plants and other organisms in your aquarium. The choice is certainly yours; however, bear in mind that the fish you will be installing in your tank undoubtedly would be using the types of things that you would consider decorations for shelter when out in the wild. Therefore, it is in the best interests of your fish (and your aesthetic senses) to go the natural route.

Live rock is an invaluable addition to any saltwater aquarium, serving not only as an aesthetically pleasing ornamentation but as a vital part of the aquarium’s ecosystem. Live rock is rock that is covered with both micro- and macroorganisms which will help filter the waste products out of the water, making it a safe habitat for its aquatic inhabitants. Driftwood and sand are also essential elements of a saltwater fish’s natural habitat and provide a beautiful backdrop to showcase the glorious beauty of your saltwater fish.

Live plants are also a beautiful, functional addition to your saltwater aquarium, as they serve to help oxygenate the tank and provide the fish with a spot to inhabit and, if you are incredibly lucky, lay their eggs. There are a variety of choices for you to choose from, and it is very helpful to choose the breeds of fish which you wish to place in your tank prior to making a decision. They will thrive best with the same types of vegetation which would be present in their environment had they been allowed to stay in the wild rather than coming to grace your home aquarium. It may be necessary to make some special concessions in order to assure the well being of your saltwater plants. Plants need carbon dioxide and light to perform their photosynthesis process, so your tank is going to need to be well lit at least part of the day and may require the addition of an artificial carbon dioxide producer. The sand, silt or gravel which you choose to cover the bottom of your aquarium with must be of an adequate depth to allow the roots of the plant to take hold; around 8 cm is generally adequate, although this may vary from plant to plant. These adjustments may seem like a great deal of extra work but will be well worth the end results.

The beauty of a well decorated saltwater aquarium is incomparable, and will bring pleasure to its owners for years to come. For further assistance in selecting tank accessories that are both beautiful and functional consult with your local vendor of tropical fish.

The first thing you need to know about feeding tropical fish is how much food they should be getting. The general rule of thumb is that when you feed your fish use a stopwatch and time how long it takes them to eat. It should take approximently two minutes for the fish to finish eating. If the fish in your tank finish their food in less then two minutes they probably aren’t getting enough to eat. If after two minutes there is still food left over then they are probably getting over fed and you’ll have to cut back. A more accurate way of measuring how much food that fifty adult tropical fish should eat approximately ten grams of food in one month, but that can carry with variety and growth.

A balanced fish food typically consists of ten percent fat, thirty to thirty-six percent protein. There should also be amino acids.

The first step in feeding your fish responsibly is knowing what type of food they eat. Some fish can not be kept in a tank that has coral because they like to eat the little invertebrates that make the coral their home. Predatory fish typically need to have frozen or live food. Bottom dwelling fish should be fed a type of food that is heavy enough to sink to the bottom of the tank, these fish do not do well with fish foods that float on the tanks surface. Aquarium owners who are interested in breeding their tropical fish often feed their fish brine shrimp, which they raise in their own brine shrimp hatchery.

Many saltwater fish aquariums caretakers like using automatic fish food feeders. Automatic fish food feeders are feeders that can be clamped to the side of the aquarium. Once the fish owner has loaded the hopper with food, the feeder will automatically dispense the food at regular intervals, this allows the fish owner to have more flexibility and not be forced to arrange their schedules around feeding their fish. The average automatic fish food feeder is not capable of dispensing frozen or live food, which does make them convenient for predatory fish. Some absentee fish owners place food blocks in their aquariums.

Tropical fish owners should store their extra fish food in a cool dry place in containers that won’t allow moisture to seep in. Frozen fish food should be disposed of after three months.

One of the dangers in overfeeding fish is that the wasted food can wreck havoc on the pH levels of your aquariums water. If to much discarded food is contaminating the water it can contribute to the death of your fish.

The most important need that any creature has is the need for food. This is not different for fish. It is important to mimic the type of food that a fish would typically eat in the ocean. These foods can be purchased in flake, tablet, or frozen forms. In addition, there are vitamins that can be added to the foods to replace any nutrients that may have been lost in the freezing or drying processes. Just as we humans don’t like to eat the same thing every day, neither do fish. Keep a variety of food handy because they will not eat the same food daily. Research the specific needs of the fish before you purchase them to make sure you are able to provide the food that they need. Be careful not to over feed the fish. This will cause a build up of debris in the tank. Only feed an amount that can be consumed in the first two to five minutes. Try to remove any excess food after feeding time in order to keep the tank tidy: and take notes. Remember how much was consumed previously and try to replicate that at the next feeding time. Over feeding fish is a common mistake, especially amongst new aquarium owners.

The next item on the list of raising a healthy fish is keep the water properly regulated. It is imperative to keep the salinity levels, P.H. and temperature consistent in a saltwater aquarium. Test the water daily and make any necessary adjustments immediately. Check the water for cloudiness and clean the filter regularly.

Have you ever heard the saying that a happy baby is a healthy baby? Well, the same is true for fish. Fish should be made to feel as comfortable as possible in their new home. You should try to recreate their natural habitat. Research to find out what type of specific corals, sponges and plants the fish have in their open water environment. If a particular fish lives on a coral reef, try to incorporate that into the grand scheme of the aquarium. Stress can be minimized by providing ample opportunities for fish to act normally.

Lastly try to avoid overcrowding the tank. This is another common problem that can be easily avoided. A general rule of thumb is one small fish per every ten gallons of water. Keep in mind however, that what is considered a small fish, may not be so small next month. Research, again is important because it is necessary to find out how large a fish will grow and weather or not it is compatible with its tank mates.