Sick Fish & Treatment

Fish do get sick. Diseases are often caused by poor water quality, water imbalance or fish stress. It is much easier to prevent diseases than it is to try and cure a sick fish. As a fish owner it is important to not only recognise diseases but understand their causes, or you may suffer more outbreaks. Some diseases are actually secondary conditions and you will need to treat both the cause of the first problem and the disease itself to get your tank back to a healthy condition.

Isolation tank-Many serious aquarium owners like to use an isolation tank. When they bring new fish home they place them in a separate tank rather than introducing them directly into their main tank. This gives them the opportunity to watch the fish for a week or two to ensure that they do not have any diseases or infections that may infect their main tank. This is a particularly good idea if you have a lot of expensive or rare fish.

Quarantine or Hospital Tank-These are a great idea if you have the room and the extra equipment. They do not have to be large or elaborate, in fact a bare minimum of decorations in the tank is preferable. This will help to reduce the amount of cleaning and bacteria in the tank. It does need to be properly cycled before putting any fish in it. There is no point in putting a sick fish into an uncycled tank and exposing it to toxic levels of ammonia or nitrites.

Set up- The hospital tank only needs to be large enough to keep one or two of the largest fish in your main tank. If you do not want to have it running all the time consider keeping a small sponge filter in your main tank. This can be quickly moved to the hospital tank when it is needed. This will ensure that the filter has a good build up of healthy bacteria growth before going into the isolation tank. If the disease you are trying to cure is contagious do not bother moving the filter to the hospital tank because you will only be spreading the disease. Treat the entire main tank.

A hospital tank is only needed if the condition that your fish has is not contagious. In many cases of fish disease you are going to need to treat the entire population of the tank. Even if other fish are not showing signs of the disease they may be infected. If the disease is caused by poor water quality or an imbalance you may want to remove the sick fish and medicate it, while you balance or correct any problems in the main tank.

Fish medication can be expensive. Treating just one fish in a small tank is far less expensive than trying to medicate an entire aquarium. If the disease itself is not contagious and was caused by fish aggression or injury there is no need to treat the entire main tank.

There are many tropical fish medicines on the market, which are highly effective. But, in order for any medication to be effective you have to be able to properly diagnose the fish. You not only have to recognise the disease but ascertain whether or not the disease is contagious or is an isolated incident. You should also know if the disease is a result of some other primary factor which should also be corrected.

List of common diseases and problems:

Red Pest
Mouth Fungus
Dropsy
Tail and Fin Rot
Scale Protrusion
Velvet
Ich
Flukes
Fungus
Injuries
Costia
Eye Pop

Saltwater Aquariums and Aquarium Algae-Prevention

Anyone who has had an aquarium knows that algae is unavoidable. It is just one of the things that fish owners, both salt and freshwater, have to deal with on a regular basis.

There are four main variety’s of algae; green algae, brown algae, red-brush algae, and blue green algae.

Green algae is the variety of algae that most people are familiar with. Green algae thrives in any aquarium that receives an abundance of light. The two most commonly seen green algaes in aquariums are hair algae and hard “green dot algae”. Hair algae are long wispy strands of algae that are easily cleaned from the tank. The green-dot algae appears as green dots of algae on the side of the aquarium, it is very difficult and time consuming to remove green dot algae.

It is common for brown algae to appear when a tank that has just been started. It typically puts in an appearance within the first two weeks. Its appearance in established tanks means that the aquarium owner needs to test the nitrate and phosphate levels of this tank. Brown algae is unusual because it thrives in aquariums that do not receive a great deal of light. When brown algae appears in the tank the aquarium owner needs to clean the entire tank and increase the lighting. It is not unusual for brown algae to disappear when the tank conditions stabilize.

Red-brush algae is a variety of algae that loves aquariums that have a high PH. It is incredibly difficult to manually remove red-brush algae from aquariums.

Blue-green algae is deceptive because it’s not an algae at all. It is really a cynobacteria. When it appears in the aquarium it looks like a slime that is taking over the tank. Blue-green algae can be fatal to aquarium plants and can jeopardize the health of the fish.

There are many ways you can discourage the growth of algae in your saltwater tanks.

One of the simplest ways to limit the amount of algae in your saltwater tank is to reduce your lighting. Leaving your aquarium lights on for less then nine hours a day will limit the amount of time algae has to photosynthesis. Use the lowest wattage possible.

Use distilled water whenever you clean your saltwater aquarium or change the water. Changing your water every two to three weeks will limit the amount of time algae can grow in your tank. When you change the water make sure you vacuum your rocks. Also keep the use of additives to a minimum. Change your prefilter pad weekly.

Stock your tank with algae eating fish. In saltwater tanks this will be; hard star fish, Yellow Tang fish, Blennies, Turbo snails, Angel fish, and small Hermit Crabs.

Purchase the largest, strongest algae glass cleaning magnet you can find and then use it. If you use the magnet each and every time you clean the water your tank the glass on your tank should stay algae free. Be sure to clean the magnet after each use. For particularly stubborn algae spots, you will have to use a razor blade. Don’t forget to clean the overflow pipes.

Caring for your Freshwater Aquarium

The most important factor of owning an aquarium is the proper cleaning of the tank. Many new owners are unsure of how to go about this. This information will help new freshwater aquarium owners keep a clean and healthy tank. These first two questions are the key to maintaining your aquarium allowing you to enjoy this beautiful addition to your home.

When should I clean my tank? You should clean your tank once every two months unless you can really tell it needs cleaned before then. Why should I clean my tank once every two months? Because your tank will start building up algae on the inside and your gravel will retain waste that could make your fish ill in the future.
The following steps are easy and quick and will provide your fish with a clean and happy aquarium.

Step 1 (prepare for cleaning)
You have to prepare for the steps to follow before removing your fish from your freshwater aquarium. There are some supplies you will need to clean the tank, so it’s best to have them handy before starting. You will need some kind of container that your fish can be placed in until it’s time for them to be put back in the tank. It doesn’t have to be a large container, but make sure your fish do have enough room to swim freely. This container is dependant on how many fish are living in the tank. You will also need a fish net, a towel or paper towels to wipe up any spills that may occur, a water pitcher or a bucket for refilling the tank, food drainer, a clean sponge, and a clean rag. After you have these things gathered, you’re now ready to begin cleaning your freshwater aquarium.

Step 2 (Removing your fish)
This may be the most important step in the cleaning process. It is time to remove the fish from the tank. The first thing to do is make sure that the container in which the fish are being placed has water that is about the same temperature at the tank, other wise your fish will go into shock. When the container of water is ready, use the net to catch each fish one-by-one and place them in the container. Once all the fish are collected, be sure to place the container in a safe place where it will not be spilled. It is common for fish to become stressed when they are moved, so the water temperature and reducing as much unneeded activity is very important.

Step 3 (Removing the fish tanks old water)
When all the fish are out of the tank, it is time to start emptying the water from the aquarium. Using the pitcher or small bucket, begin to remove the water. The water from the tank may be disposed in a sink or toilet. This can be a messy task, so be sure to clean up all spills to prevent any possible accidents. It is not necessary to remove all the water from the tank. Most freshwater aquarium owners remove approximately 3/4 of the water. The remaining original water will help acclimate the new water you will add later.
Step 3 (Removing and cleaning your tanks gravel)
Most of the waste that gathers in a tank settles into the gravel at the bottom. It is very important to clean the gravel when you clean your tank. At this time you will remove the gravel. You can use the fish net, a small scoop or even a dustpan to do this. Place the gravel in a container. Once you have removed all the gravel, transfer it into a strainer of some sort and run it under hot water. Be sure to mix it up while you are rinsing so that all the sediment and waste is removed. Once the gravel has been cleaned, place it aside. You will not be putting it back in the tank at this time.

Step 4 (Cleaning the tank)
Now it’s time to clean the inside of the tank. This can be a tedious chore if there is a lot of build-up on the glass. Some freshwater aquariums have algae growth on the glass. The warmer the water is inside and the more the aquarium is exposed to natural sunlight, the more algae growth you will have. This can be cleaned off by using a scratch pad. Try to use the least abrasive pad you can to avoid scratching the class. Cleaning with hot water will aid in the removal of algae. Make sure to never use any type of cleaner or detergent when cleaning the tank. This will be fatal to the fish. After removing the algae, finish by wiping down the rest of the tank with a towel or soft rag. You may have to repeat this a few times. Try to rinse the rag or towel frequently to remove all the waste. If you have decorative pieces in the tank, be sure to wash them as well using hot water. After completing these steps, your tank should be clean of waste and build-ups.

Step 5 (Putting it all back together)
Now it’s time to replace everything. Start by replacing the gravel into the tank, followed by refilling the water. Take notice of the temperature once again. Try to add water that is of the same temperature as the original water in the tank. Add your finishing touches with decorative pieces, then carefully move the fish back in. It may take a little while for the fish to adjust to the new water, but after having followed all these steps, you can be sure that your tank is clean and healthy.

You won’t have to completely clean your tank for another 2 months. Always remember to change the filters if they are dirty. As an added tip, if you remove 20% of the water every month and replace it with clean water, this will cut down on the complete cleaning of the tank in the future. To maintain a healthy tank, it is important to clean it properly and keep up with the aquarium care. By doing this, you will ensure a long life for your fish and an enjoyable experience for observers.